Article: The appeal of Cartier Must Tank dial variations

Sep 4, 2025

The appeal of Cartier Must Tank dial variations

The most popular of the Tank series, which is symbolic of Cartier watches, is "Les Must de Cartier," commonly known as the "Must Tank."

This masterpiece inherits the rectangular case shape that first appeared in 1917, but has been accepted by a wide range of customers thanks to its innovative materials and decoration.Its shape, which exquisitely blends elegance and minimalism, continues to exude appeal across the ages.

And when talking about the Mast Tank, it is essential to mention the wide variety of dials available. From classic to unique, the diverse faces add color to the look of the watch.

In this article, we will take a closer look at the representative dial designs and playful variations of the Mast Tank models that we have handled in the past.

What is a mast tank?

The Must Tank is part of Cartier's classic Tank series, which was born around 1976. This model, which was released as part of a new brand line that embodies the meaning of "must de Cartier," combines the beauty and familiarity of the traditional Tank.

The case material was vermeil (gold-plated silver), which made it more affordable and popular with a wide range of people.

Classic dial: iconic Roman numerals

First of all, the iconic dial of the Mast Tank is undoubtedly the Roman index.

It features classic Roman numeral indexes, railway-style markings, and a "secret signature" hidden at the VII (or X) position on the index.

This classic face is the most iconic dial in the Tank series' tradition.

Ivory Roman dial

The most common type is a slightly yellowish ivory dial with black Roman numerals.

This design combines simplicity and sophistication, and blends seamlessly into both business and casual settings.

Black Roman dial

The black Roman dial, which is said to be seen only in the manual-winding caliber period (around 1976 to 1981), also exudes a classic and manly atmosphere.

It can be worn with a suit, or as an accent for casual fashion to enhance the overall look.

Gray Roman dial

The grey dial is bordered in black, and the Roman numerals are placed only on the even numbers, creating a "flying Roman" design.

This is a popular dial that exudes a chic and elegant atmosphere.

Black Roman dial

The design features gold Roman numerals that stand out against the black dial.

The hands are also gold in color, creating a unified color scheme and a handsome look.

Champagne Roman Dial

The design features a champagne-colored dial with flying Roman indexes.

It has an elegant and classic look and can be worn for both business and casual occasions.

Silver Roman numerals dial

The design features a silver dial with Roman numerals.

Like the Champagne Flying Roman, this popular dial has an elegant and classic look and can be worn for both business and casual occasions.

Roman dial with gray center

The design is based on white, with the center of the dial painted gray, creating a flying Roman design.

In fact, there are few white dial designs for the Mast Tank, so this dial is popular due to its good design and high visibility.

Opalescent dial

The opal dial, which means "opal" in French, is a particularly popular dial design.

The pearl white dial features three-dimensional Roman numerals, making it popular with both men and women.

Trinity Dial

Along with the opalin dial mentioned above, the Trinity dial from the quartz caliber era is also very popular.

The white dial features Cartier's signature Trinity motif, and the Roman numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock give it a striking yet elegant look.

White Roman dial

From around 1985, silver mast tanks with rhodium plating began to appear.

This silver Mast Tank, which also has a different reference number, features a white dial with blue Roman numerals.

The gold mast tank is fitted with an ivory Roman weave, while the silver mast tank is fitted with a white Roman weave. These have become a popular new standard for mast tanks since the mid-1980s.

Straight Roman dial

The dial, with its vertical Roman numerals, is said to have been inspired by table clocks from the 1920s.

The Roman numeral at 4 o'clock is "IV" instead of "IIII," a very unusual detail among Cartier watches.

White Roman Dial

The dial design is seen on later Mast Tank models, and is characterized by Roman numerals at even numbers and the Cartier emblem placed in the center of the dial.

Due to the short production period, this is a rare dial with few in circulation.

White Roman numerals dial (blue indexes)

The dial design is seen on later Mast Tank models, and is characterized by Roman numerals at even numbers and the Cartier emblem placed in the center of the dial.

The silver case was paired with blue indexes.

Due to the short production period, this is a rare dial with few in circulation.

Pink Roman dial

This is a rare dial that was released exclusively for Christmas in the 2000s. At the time, it was only available in MM size.

Silver Roman dial

This is a rare dial that was released exclusively for Christmas in the 2000s. At the time, it was only available in MM size.

Silver Roman dial (current model)

This is the dial design of the current Tank Mast model. The metallic color creates a sparkling texture depending on the angle, carrying on the tradition of the Tank series into the modern era.

Arabic Dials: Casual Appeal and Rarity

The Arabic-style dial of the Cartier Must Tank features Arabic numerals, which are rare for Cartier watches. Its high visibility and pop impression make it suitable for casual styles.

The "flying Arabic dial" with numbers in even positions is accented with a watermarked logo, and the retro "telephone Arabic dial" is a rare, late model that is rarely seen in circulation.

In the 1990s, a limited edition model was released featuring applied Arabic numerals and wedge-shaped indices.

Arabic dial

The dial features Arabic numerals, which is rare among Cartier watches.

This dial design is highly visible and has a somewhat pop impression, making it a popular watch face that is perfectly compatible with casual outfits.

Jumping Arabic dial

The dial has Arabic numerals in the even positions.

The dial design has an elegant impression with many Cartier emblems as watermark logos.

Telephone Arabic Dial

The dial design is similar to that seen on later Mast Tank models, and has a pop feel reminiscent of a retro telephone.

Due to the short production period, this is a rare dial with few in circulation.

Applied Arabic and wedge-shaped index dial

This is a rare dial, with only 500 pieces released in the 1990s.

The Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o'clock are applied, and the wedge-shaped indexes are inspired by watch designs from the 1950s, making this a very rare model.

Colorful variations: No-index dial

Along with dials with Roman indices, there are also variations on colored dials without indices that should be mentioned.

It is mainly seen in the period of manual-wound calibers (around 1976 to 1981), but also in the very early period of quartz calibers.

Onyx Dial

The chic onyx dial has a subtle yet understated beauty that gives it presence.

It works as a highly formal dress watch, but also enhances your wrist when paired with casual clothing such as denim.

Lapis lazuli dial

The lapis lazuli dial, with its deep blue color and scattered gold star-like paint, gives an impression of intelligence and elegance.

Pair it with a blue leather belt to create a gorgeous focal point that will become the centerpiece of your outfit.

Mahogany dial

The mahogany dial has a wood grain pattern created with paint, and each piece has its own unique pattern, including color, making it a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

These are rare dials with limited stock, so finding a pattern you like is truly a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Ivory dial

The dial features a face that looks as if the Roman indexes had been removed from an ivory Roman dial.

This is a rare dial that is especially rare and is recommended for those looking for something a little different.

Coral Dial

The dial is a deep orange color with a slight pinkish tint, reminiscent of coral. It is very similar to the Bordeaux dial, which we will discuss later, but the difference is immediately obvious when you put them side by side.

This is a rare dial that is especially rare and is recommended for those looking for something a little different.

Bordeaux dial

The passionate, deep red Bordeaux dial is Cartier's signature color and is a design that combines elegance and boldness.

It matches perfectly with the gold case and makes a statement on your wrist, adding an accent to your outfit.

Other artistic and playful dials

There are also a wide variety of dial variations that combine Cartier tradition with art and playfulness. These include the Trinity motif, invented by Louis Cartier, in a square or central position, sunray decorations radiating from the dial, and cloisonné dials with metal wire indices, all of which highlight Cartier's unique aesthetic sense.

There are also many rare dials, such as limited edition Art Deco models and gold sector models exclusive to Japan, which add a variety of looks to the collection as art pieces that highlight individuality.

Square Trinity Dial

This dial incorporates the color scheme of the "Trinity," a traditional Cartier motif invented by Louis Cartier in 1924. It is said to have first appeared in 1980.

In addition to this square shape, the Trinity motif used in the manual-winding caliber era also comes in a vertical stripe design.

Sunray Dial

The sunray dial, which is decorated radially from the center of the dial, is said to have appeared in 1980 and is a rare dial with few in circulation.

The ingenious design, which changes its appearance depending on the angle from which it is viewed, truly embodies the inspiration of Cartier as a jeweler.

Ivory cloisonné dial

"Cloisonné" is a dial design that is said to have appeared in 1985.

A metal wire frame serves as the index, and the Cartier emblem is placed at the bottom center of the dial.

This is a rare dial that is especially rare and is recommended for those looking for something a little different.

Bordeaux cloisonné dial

Like the Ivory Cloisonné mentioned above, a metal wire frame serves as the index, and the Cartier emblem is placed at the bottom center of the dial.

This is a rare dial that is especially rare and is recommended for those looking for something a little different.

Front Trinity Dial

This is a popular dial design that incorporates the Trinity motif in the center of the dial.

The three gold colours sparkle depending on the angle you look at it from, adding a touch of glamour to your wrist.

Art Deco Dial

This is a rare dial, with only 1,000 pieces released in the 1990s.

It features a geometric Art Deco design and is a highly sought-after collector's item.

Gold sector dial

This is a rare dial that was released in Japan in the 1990s, with only 500 pieces available.

The sideways indices for the "3" and "9" on the dial give it a classic look reminiscent of Art Deco, and the glossy gold parts, the matte cream-white parts with a satin-like finish, and the blue hands create a beautiful contrast, making this a very rare model.